Cristian Vlad created a poll in Yamaha BT1100 Bulldog.


What setting is best for the front fork preload? 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 ?

%d comments
  • I think you cannot make it that simple. From my opinion you have to take into account the type of springs which are mounted and the weight of the rider.

  • I will reveal my ignorance and ask the question: how does setting the preload change the characteristics of the fork? Does it make it stiffer / softer or what?

  • I run with the 6 for four years but recently I changed to 5 and what a huge difference!, the bike don't dive animore when braking and the curve handling is more precise. I did not change it from 6 because I assume it will be too stiff for the potholes ...but surprisingly it is even better now.... The preload of rebound is how much the spring is already compressed before it will take the road shocks...and that it matter more than I realise. ..and it counts greatly for the quality and performance of braking too...

  • I assume that everything would be stock, rider too ! :)

  • Thanks Christian, great answer! I'll definitely try changing my settings as I find that my bike dives a little too much under hard braking. What about the rear spring, does the same apply there? Does altering the pretension affect the ride height too?

  • You are welcome, regarding the rear setup there is the same rules but usually the setup is quite stiff. In the main manual which I will try to find there is clear mentioned the setups done specifically for rider heights and weights ...

  • Great info !

  • And of course, you should respect the oil being used and the air buffer (how many cm). This all will influence the setting of the fork, but this is just half of the truth.

    For a complete setup the rear shock settings have also be considered, since both settings (front + rear) influence the geometry of the whole bike chassis

  • ...4/5....

  • The paradox is that i made change the setup from 6 to 5 (from hard to soft) and dive less....

  • Before making any random changes, take a look at that brief guide: on/

  • well, I'm kind of standard weight and hight so I may need standard setups ... thanks!

  • Inside the damper, directly under the bolt, you will find a disc. By turning the bolt clockwise, you will lower the position of the disc. The disc rests on the spring (not directly, you will find there is a bushing between them).The spring gets more compressed and travel of the front suspension is reduced. The front fork will not be able to expand fully anymore, you miss the 'soft' part that is only active when the front of the bike moves upwards.

    Back to the beginning. You have turned the bolt clockwise and the bike is at rest. As soon as you take place on the bike, the spring will be compressed to create a force that is opposite but equal to the downforce created by you plus the bike (of course, the rear also takes part of the weight). The final compression of the spring for this condition is not altered by the setting of the bolt! However, the front of the bike is lifted by the same amount as you have lowered the disc. So, you have altered the geometry of the bike. It will now behave differently. You have altered the stability and the behaviour when cornering. You will have to find out yourself if you are pleased with the change. If you want to alter the the spring setting and keep the same geometry, you will have the change the position of the fork tubes in the clamps.