Does this sound lean

Does this sound lean?

33 comments
  • Sounds like it might be a little lean. Have udone a plug chop

  • Sounds like idle air needs a lil adjusting but it sounds fine

  • How should it sound?

  • And just to make sure I remember this correctly, if going in on the air screw I'm leaning her out. And if I'm backing out the screw I'm rich?

  • In is ritch out is lean on most carbs or should i say 2stroke carbs. My 400ex is opposite in is lean out is rich

  • Ohhhhh lol gotcha ok

  • Most 4 strokes are that way?

  • Didn't know if you knew that.

    So i was making sure....lol

  • No plug chop yet.

  • Matter of fact. What is that

  • I didn't. Thank you.

  • No need but your welcome

  • Warm it up an make your adjustments a 8th of a turn at a time and give it afew seconds to adjust.

    I set mine so it raps up off idle the quickest

  • When I'm waiting for it to adjust should I be conserned with idle. Or its more what it sounds and feels like when the engine is rising and lowering. Because right now idle is good. But when the engine is being revd, it's kinda boggy. And when the engine is coming down it hangs a little and pops 4 or 5 times until it reaches idle. I mean you can see it in the video

  • I never really idle my 2 strokes but from idle it should rev quickly and come back to idle fairly quick too

  • Set the idle screw as low as you can and keep an idle.

    Adjust air/fuel to wherever it idles the fastest with the idle screw in the same position.

    Once you've found that, idle it back down using the idle screw.

  • Warm up your engine put a brand new plug in it then ride it through the gears with heavy throttle one time pull the clutch and kill it. Then. Cut the threads off the plug

  • Have u done a leaktest and set the air screw?

  • Mike Harpster ok your saying to bring the idle, but to where the bike still hold an idle without me having to Rev to not die?

    Then I adjust air fuel screw to where the idle starts going faster but without moving the idle screw?

    Once I've found that I bring the idle back down? Or up? Because isn't the idle already down in the first step?

  • Adjust the air screw so it idles the highest. Then set ur idle where u want it

  • What Leo said.

  • Cut straight through? Take the whole top off?

  • Is an ok example

  • See 10 different ways and 15 of another....lol it all on what you like

  • Got it. I'll try that tomorrow you guys.

  • What do I want mine to look like.

  • Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the

    AFR.

    WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.

    Warm up motor to operating temp.

    Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

    Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

    Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

    Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

    There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

    If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

    If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

    I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

    You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

    Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

    The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit. I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

  • There is only one way to set the idle speed.

    The correct way to set the idle to specifications...

    Idle adjusting.

    Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.

    Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

    Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit.

    With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

    Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

    Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .

    If the air screw ends up being more than 2 1/2 turns out the pilot jet is too big.

    If less than 1/2 a turn out the pilot is too small.

    It is a set and forget adjustment, the only time the air screw may need altering is if the temperature changes drastically or you ride at a different elevation .

    The idle AFR sets the transition onto the needle circuit.

  • You cannot set anything by listening....

  • Popping is a good sign that something is way too lean, usually the idle mixture.

  • Terry Preston so in the video I posted I'm running lean?

  • Set the idle speed as per specs,

    I posted info, \/ \/.....