I m going to change my valve seals without removing the cylinder head I was...


I'm going to change my valve seals without removing the cylinder head. I was going to stuff the bore with some small rope and use one of those tools to remove the springs and collets. A Sealey VS1542 valve collet remover.

Anyone ever try this method? Is there enough room to do it?

The bike is a 4TX with 10,000, uses quite a bit of oil in my opinion.

It could be glazed cylinder bores, but I think hardened valve stem seals is a good one to eliminate first. ... and I can check the valve clearances while I'm in there.

I don't think it's leaking from any engine seals.

%d comments
  • wonder how it will work for you! please char pics and all.

  • Im interested to see how you get on with this, best of luck

  • looks like fun !

  • Interesting, really !! ... wonder what rope you're going to use.

  • Interesting concept but it could all go drastically wrong ( hope not) does she smoke a lot on startup then clears it self when warm because that's the tell tail sign that the valve seals are shot TDM's do loose a lot of oil naturally

  • A good way to check if it's valve seals is go down a steep hill on the overrun for a while then crack the throttle open. If the seals are crap you'll get a good puff of blue smoke.

  • Wouldn't a compression test determine whether valve seals were worn or shot?

  • No because they only leak when the valves are open.

  • A compression test would only determine if the valve seats are worn. The oil seals are only there to stop oil getting into the inlet or outlet ports. When the engine starts the upward and downward motion along with the gasses fly past along with thermal expansion drys the stems out so that is why it's stops smoking after a while that's why there only leak when the engine is at a standstill

  • This old trick used to be used a lot on ford cvh engines, i reckon u will be ok with it mate

  • True. Supporting the valves with the old ropetrick works. Also compressing the springs if you have a support point on the head. Challenge here will be the lack of space and access. Good luck...

  • I might do the whole top end and run the bike in properly. At least I'd know it's right. Its had little or no use in the last while but I've done 25,000 on another bike already this year!

  • Donald i tink thas a better idea. Get right in there and de-glaze the cylinders, do the valve stem seals anyway and it might pay to fit new rings while yer at it. Don't let it idle fer long periods once reassembled and don't be afraid to run it in brisk like. gr8 looking boike so tis.

  • Yes, that would be the better option. I'm short of a workshop, so wanted to stay away from the bigger jobs. Workshop is on the way!